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  1. The oil pressure sensors are very unreliable, and will often give strange readings. Put a new one in and it may give completely different readings. Try another new one and it may read different too. Mine starts off high and gradually gets lower the further I drive. But if I switch off for a few minutes, then start again, I get different readings again. Check the actual pressure with a real gauge and it will probably be within spec, and not vary as much as the dash gauge implies!
  2. You can take it apart and clean the contacts if dirty. But it may be the coil is shorting out inside when hot, in which case its a new one from Toyota. But they're not cheap, about 5/600 spänn.
  3. The electric fan will only start when it sees high pressure/load on the a/c system. The regular fan does most of the work normally.
  4. DaveN

    Markis wanted

    Anyone know where I can buy a markis for the rear of my LC? Max 1,5m wide, preferable roll out.
  5. You've got a leak, and it's usually the pipework on these. They need to look a bit harder for the dye, although it doesn't always come out, and/or use other methods like a detector tool and high pressure nitrogen. Air conditioning should rarely need recharging, only when there's a leak or it's pretty old, by which time it's probably also got a leak.
  6. All the dash lights coming on is usually an alternator fault. Either the alternator itself, or the plug/wiring going to it.
  7. Nah, not yet anyway. But isn't it easier if the vehicle is over 25 years old, like all those old yank cars?
  8. What happens with an old car (eg. 80 series) that doesn't have an official CO2 figure?
  9. I think only JDM had heated mirrors, that folded also.
  10. "prick 3,5volt" I believe. I can't see any reason why it would go up and down with a constant voltage applied.
  11. I think it's just a bad translation. 'Vibrates' should be 'reads' or 'settles' at 3.5 volt.
  12. Some years ago I took a look at this. I cut open a genuine Honda filter, and compared it to 7 or 8 from other manufacturers - Fram, Champion, Halfords (Englands Biltema), Blue Print, and a few others from the local parts shops. The difference was very surprising. The Honda had the thickest, and the most filter material (I had no way of actually checking the quality of the material other than size and feel). It also had good quality viton seals for the anti-drain and over pressure valves which would wok better at low/high temperatures. The filter end plates were metal and well bonded to the filter material. None of the others had viton seals, but cheap nitrile, and in some cases the surface the seal rested on wasn't flat or smooth (spot welds), so they wouldn't seal properly anyway. Some only had half as much filter material, that was very thin. Some had card board end caps with just a little glue holding them in place. One had such a weak spring on the over pressure valve (that didn't seal properly anyway), that 99% of the oil would have probably by-passed the filter element itself. So overall, there was a big difference in the ones I looked at, and none of them came anywhere close to the overall quality of the genuine filter. Whether it makes any difference to the life of the engine or not, who knows. Personally, I'd pay a few extra kronor for the genuine, especially as I only use 1 or 2 a year.
  13. I doubt it's the ecu, more likely the big bunch of wires and plug/socket that runs down by the starter motor.
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